Projo Food Blog

WARWICK — All I needed to see was a recent item in The Journal's Food Notes column that the Chinese Restaurant News had named the Chow Mei Fun served at the China Inn as one of the "Top 100 Signature Asian Dishes" in the country, and I was making tracks to its Post Road door.

"This is it?" said my skeptical dining companion as we pulled into the parking lot and saw that the restaurant was only two plate glass windows and a door wide, overshadowed by a looming CVS drugstore that takes up most of the building. "Well, maybe not all of that is the CVS," I said hopefully, looking at the monolithic building. "Maybe part of the restaurant sits behind that brick wall."

It does not. What you see from the front is as wide as China Inn gets. Inside, we saw photos of menu choices lit from behind above the open kitchen and take-out window. All hope of ordering a pair of thirst-quenching tropical drinks with paper umbrellas floating on top was dashed when I spied a Coca-Cola cooler filled with soft drinks next to the take-out window. The restaurant is BYOB.

There are only six booths and three small tables. We were the only diners eating here on a weekday evening, although a steady stream of customers arriving to pick up orders promised that the China Inn's cooks were doing something right, and they are. The restaurant, simply decorated with a few framed prints and a large Chinese fan, is spotless. Prices are ridiculously inexpensive — a plate of 10 very big triangles of Crab Rangoon, enough for two, is $4.95. The food is delicious and well prepared. And if Sam Chen, son of owner Yiwen Chen, waits on you, you will be treated to the most cheerful and accommodating waiter/ counterman this side of Fujian Province in southeast China, where the Chen family hails from (by way of New York City's Chinatown). They've been open for three years.

The Crab Rangoon, 10 of them, were filled to bursting with a mix of cream cheese and shredded crab and scallions, and arrived sizzling hot from the fry vat. They were not greasy, though, and after they had had a chance to cool for a few minutes were very good.

Even bigger raves were accorded the fried dumplings ($5.95), those crescent-shaped wheat dough purses stuffed with ground pork and spices with a spicy dipping sauce on the side. This dish had been praised by the Chinese Restaurant News as well. I've had this appetizer at many restaurants and the eight on a plate served at the China Inn compares with the best.

There were so many pieces of Crab Rangoon and dumplings that entrees were ordered one by one, to see how far we could take it. First, of course, was the award-winning Chow Mei Fun with shrimp ($8.10). You can also order it with chicken, beef, pork, vegetable or a house version that has all of the above.

The Chinese Restaurant News had billed it as "spicy" and many places add as much as a tablespoon of curry powder and even chili sauce to the dish. If you order it "Singapore style" at the China Inn that's what you'll get, and you can vary the degree of spiciness, said Amy Weng, Sam Chen's wife, who was at the takeout counter when we phoned later. But we had it without the spices and it was marvelous, a big plate of thin noodles, small shrimp and a variety of thin-sliced vegetables — green pepper, carrot, onion, mushrooms, scallions, bean sprouts — tossed in a mild, delicate white sauce. There were thoughts of eating only a portion, but it was so delicious that the plate left the table without so much as a single noodle left. All the ingredients were very fresh; Sam Chen says he has orders delivered from New York three times a week to maintain that freshness.

A combination platter of Beef Teriyaki ($7.60) was served kebab style, three wooden skewers of thin-sliced tender beef that had been marinated in a mild, sweet teriyaki sauce, separated by chunks of green pepper and onion. Also on the plate were a very tasty egg roll and a large portion of good, if unexceptional, pork fried rice.

Still game to try a little more, it was on to the Tung Ting Shrimp ($11.75) that Sam Chen recommended. Jumbo shrimp were served in a very smooth and delicious light white sauce that included egg whites, bamboo shoots, baby corn, julienne carrots, water chestnuts, snow peas and broccoli. It came close to the Chow Mei Fun in taste appeal.

Portions at China Inn are good size and, if you pick up from the takeout counter, prices are 20 to 50 cents cheaper! No wonder Amy Weng said that "in this tough economy, we are still doing good business."

China Inn, 2788 Post Rd., Warwick. (401) 738-8885. Casual. Wheelchair accessible. Child seats. MC, V. Parking lot. Open 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Mon. to Thurs.; to 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat; noon to 10:30 p.m. Sunday. Appetizers $2.95 to $14.50. Entrees $3.45 to $13.50. BYOB, no alcohol served, but you can bring in wine or beer. BILL OF FARE

Dinner for two at China Inn might look something like this:

Tea for two…$1.00

Fried dumplings…$5.95

Shrimp Chow Mei Fun…$8.10

Beef Teriyaki combination plate…$7.60

Total food and drink…$22.65

Tax…$1.81

Tip…$4.50

Total bill…$28.96

mjanuson@projo.com